Ele também era empregado para descrever as tradições culturais portuguesas. Mas, nos tempos atuais, há o conceito de que “a moda é você quem faz”, que busca oferecer mais liberdade e também conforto para as pessoas. Sendo assim, pode-se dizer que isso estaria sendo uma espécie de fuga da moda em si. Pode-se reflectir em certos objectos ou aspectos visíveis (roupa, penteados, calçado, etc.), mas também em maneiras de estar e em comportamentos (ouvir um determinado estilo de música, frequentar certos restaurantes, ir de férias a determinados destinos). A moda pode-se definir como sendo um mecanismo que regula as escolhas e as preferências das pessoas, já que, devido a uma espécie de pressão social, indica-lhes aquilo que devem consumir, utilizar, usar ou fazer. A moda torna-se um hábito repetitivo que identifica um sujeito ou um grupo de indivíduos.
Segundo antropólogos, o surgimento da roupa está relacionado à necessidade manifestada pelo ser humano de esconder a nudez e de se proteger do frio, da chuva e do calor. Para entender a moda e a sua influência é necessário voltar um pouco na história. E esse termo deu origem ao que se conhece hoje por “modinha”, sendo que ambos são conceitos distintos, pois “modinha” trata-se de um gênero musical com influencias portuguesas e também brasileiras. Mesmo que o facto de se adoptar uma moda seja um acto voluntário, as pessoas que preferem não seguir esses códigos acabam por ficar, de alguma forma, afastadas da sociedade.
Ela faz parte de um desejo muito profundo e íntimo do ser humano como um ser social, criar um vínculo com os outros, mas ainda assim afirmar seu diferencial e buscar pelo poder. Um macho usava a pele do animal que ele caçou sobre o corpo, exibindo o quão bom caçador ele era. Isso para atrair fêmeas ou mostrar seu poder para outros machos, afirmando sua superioridade e colocando ele em posição de mais forte ou líder. Temos que pensar que mesmo no período das cavernas o ser humana sempre foi e sempre será um ser social, que tem que viver em grupos. Todos os relatos que temos hoje são baseados em representações de achados arqueológicos.
A partir desta dificuldade, surgiu a alta costura que produzia diferentes estilos por meio de estilistas que inventavam tendências. Basicamente só é considerado moda quando se inicia uma espécie de produção mais industrializada. A moda como conhecemos hoje, com modelos, estilistas, desfiles e peças criadas pelo estilista, não mais pelos caprichos das madames, começou por volta de 1900 com Worth, também conhecido como o ‘pai da moda’. A partir desse período toda a cadeia e o mercado das roupas sofreu uma reviravolta muito grande, tanto que começamos a contar por décadas, década de 20, 50, 70 e por ai vai. Antes disso tudo que aconteceu é nomeado história da indumentária pois sua forma de desenvolver era diferente. Era a primeira vez que clientela e estilistas se misturavam em eventos sociais.
As contramodas devem ser pensadas como uma “facção” ou subgrupo da moda, em função de seu mecanismo de funcionamento interno e, simultaneamente, por representar valores de grupos que coexistem no espaço social com o “grupo” que dita a moda estabelecida. Essas são algumas das questões que esboçam hipóteses em relação à tese de que, efetivamente, ainda é importante pensar a moda como um fenômeno simbólico e indicador de pertenças sociais. Porém, em vista das transformações dos últimos tempos, a unidade destes grupos da sociedade civil passa a se dar, no tempo presente, pela atuação de categorias mais diversas do que em tempo anterior.
História[editar editar código-fonte]
Como consequência da guerra, fibras sintéticas, raiom e viscose assumiram o lugar antes ocupado pelos tecidos mais refinados. O racionamento de tecidos obrigou os estilistas a procurarem alternativas. Os diferentes lace cabelo humano contextos de moda abordados neste estudo estão interconectados uns com os outros porque devem ser pensados como um processo. A moda surgiu em meados do século XV no início do renascimento europeu.
Teoria clássica sobre a manifestação da moda no vestuário
Em outubro de 1926, a Vogue americana descreveu o “pretinho básico” como o “Ford” da Chanel, acrescentando que o mundo inteiro vestiria a peça. A comparação feita pela Vogue se deve ao fato de que o vestido, assim como o “Modelo T” da Ford, tinha um forte apelo comercial. Em 1919, Coco Chanel criou o “black dress”, um vestido preto de crepe com mangas compridas e justas. A ousadia da estilista se manifestou através da cor do vestido, já que na época o preto era pouco utilizado na alta-costura por ser um tom associado ao luto. O formato do chapéu permitia que ele se ajustasse perfeitamente ao corte de cabelo mais curto, dominante na época. Conhecido como o “pai da alta-costura”, o nome de Worth ficou eternizado na moda.
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Assim como a guerra do início do século, a Segunda Guerra Mundial também trouxe consequências para a história da moda. Na Europa, berço de grandes etilistas da época, muitas maisons fecharam suas portas. Em outros países do Oriente, as pessoas pintavam o corpo para as celebrações maio manga longa religiosas. Em propagandas, serve para deixar os modelos bem adaptados aos padrões estipulados pela moda. A moda é uma manifestação cultural que tem importância como um dos principais campos de estudo para a compreensão de mecanismos de expressão no plano simbólico.
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